Neptune Series IV
the vintage diver that chose Hesalite on purpose
Lorier discontinued the Neptune Series IV, a 39mm Hesalite-crystal diver on a Miyota 90S5, for a newer sapphire model in 2026.
Scored by the published HypeScore formula from the specification and the street price. Never edited by hand, never influenced by affiliation. Read the formula →
Lorier built its name on the Neptune, and the Series IV is the version that convinced a lot of collectors the brand belonged in the same conversation as Baltic and the bigger Japanese reissues. It sold through its production run across 2022 and 2023, and then Lorier quietly let the reference go. The archived product page is now the only place to read the original spec sheet in the company’s own words, since the live site does not carry it anymore.
The spec that draws the arguments is the crystal. Lorier used a domed Hesalite acrylic instead of sapphire, a deliberate throwback to the Rolex Submariner 6538 references the Neptune is styled after. It scratches more easily than sapphire and buffs out with a polishing cloth, which is either charming or a downgrade depending on how you feel about maintenance rituals. Underneath sits a Miyota 90S5, an open heart automatic that hacks and hand-winds and runs 42 hours by Miyota’s own published figure. Lorier never printed a power reserve number on its own page, a small thing to leave out on a $499 watch.
I think the clasp is the real limit here. Three microadjustment positions on a 200 meter diver is stingy next to what sub-$200 microbrands now ship as standard, and the Steeldive SD1953 on this site gives you a ceramic bezel and six adjustment slots for closer to a third of the Neptune’s launch price. What the Neptune has that the Steeldive does not is a genuinely considered case: the shortened lugs and repositioned lug holes that Lorier’s own update notes call out, and a design pedigree that predates the current wave of vintage-diver microbrands rather than following it.
Lorier replaced it in 2026 with a new Neptune that runs a Miyota 9039 under sapphire, at $699, which suggests the company itself did not think Series IV was the finished article. Buy one today and you are buying secondhand, with no warranty and an asking price somewhere between $380 and $499 depending on kit and condition. That is still a fair trade for the Hesalite dome and the gilt dial, if you know what you are signing up for.
- Lorier: Neptune Series IV product page (archived by the Wayback Machine, 29 Nov 2022) · Case width, case thickness, crystal dome height, lug-to-lug, lug width, bezel, bracelet, clasp and launch price ($499), as published on Lorier's own product page before it was discontinued and removed from the live site.
- Miyota Movement: caliber 90S5 specification · Power reserve (42 hours), accuracy, jewel count and hacking and hand-winding function, as published by Miyota, the movement's manufacturer. Lorier's own product page does not state a power reserve figure.
- Lorier: current Neptune product page · Confirms Lorier's live 2026 Neptune listing specifies a sapphire crystal, a sapphire bezel insert and a Miyota 9039 movement, evidence that the Hesalite-and-acrylic Series IV covered on this page is a discontinued, distinct generation.
- Worn & Wound: Lorier Re-Introduces Four of their Classics · Confirms the 2026 Neptune reissue's Miyota 9039 movement, sapphire crystal and $699 retail price, and its 27 July 2026 pre-order date, supporting that Series IV has been superseded rather than still sold.
What reviewers say.
EMBEDDED WITH FULL CREDIT · VIEWS GO TO THE CREATORCreator videos appear here as YouTube embeds, so every view lands on the creator's own channel where it belongs. We never re-host, re-cut or re-upload another reviewer's footage.
Where to buy.
Affiliate links, and commissions never touch the score. Retail partners are not live yet, so until they are, this rail points at the manufacturer's own listing rather than an untracked link.